The Hawaiian Islands

[Hawai'i]  [Kaho'olawe]  [Kauai]  [Lanai]  [Maui]  [Molokai]  [Niihau]  [Oahu]

The Hawaiian Islands were born from volcanic splits in the floor of the Pacific Ocean which erupted and formed a molten rock underwater mountain range that stretched nearly 2,000 miles.  After building layer upon layer, portions of this submerged range eventually broke the surface of the sea to form more than 124 islands (only seven of which are inhabited today).

While nature eventually turned the resulting land into lush tropical gardens, the islands remained uninhabited from about A.D 500 to 900, when they were settled by Polynesians from Tahiti and the Marquises.  Arriving in large ocean going canoes, these first settlers brought with them entire families, possessions, plants, animals, and religions and customs that can still be recognized today.

The first Hawaiians established a form of feudalism where each of the islands was ruled by a king.  Except for the occasional inter-island wars, very little changed for nearly a thousand years, and the islands remained fairly isolated until British explorer Captain James Cook first arrived ashore on Kauai on January 18, 1778.  He made friends with the natives during his first trip and returned a year later to explore and trade on several of the islands. The legend of the Hawaiian Islands with their exotic beauty and lush wealth of natural resources continued to lure traders, whalers, adventurers and missionaries.

Seeking to build a nation, King Kamehameha the Great conquered the other kings and by 1790, had consolidated the islands into one single, relatively peaceful kingdom.

The islands were officially granted their independence (after a brief usurpation) from Great Britain in 1843, and remained a sovereign kingdom until 1893, when the monarchy was overthrown. Hawaii's last queen was Queen Liliuokalani, who wrote the now famous, Aloha ‘Oe.

Hawaii officially became the 50th state of the United States of America in August 1959.

Hawai'i - "The Big Island"

Called "The Big Island," Hawai'i makes up nearly two-thirds of the state's total land area.  Created by five volcanoes, Hawai'i is an island of extreme diversity.  In the winter, snow blankets the slopes of Mauna Kea (which is 13,796 feet high), Mauna Loa (which is 13,677 feet) and Kilauea.   Contrasting these snow capped peaks are the moon-like Ka'u Desert, breathtaking waterfalls, the Puna Fern Forest, and the world's largest orchid production center.

Agriculture is still the leading industry on Hawai'i with sugarcane, coffee, papaya, macadamia nut, citrus fruit and avocado production.   The second leading industry is tourism.  The wide variety of climates and terrain, along with special events such as active volcanoes, the Park Ranch Rodeo, the Merrie Monarch Festival, the International Billfish Tournament, and the Kona Coffee Festival, have served to lure visitors from the mainland and neighboring islands.   Recreational opportunities are abundant on the island with excellent water sports, sightseeing, boating and hunting available during most of the year.

Kaho'olawe

With only 45 square miles of area, Kaho'olawe is the smallest of the eight main Hawaiian Islands.  Because there was little fresh water, the island was sparsely populated until the mid 1800's.  In 1826, it became the site of a penal colony which remained in service until 1853.  When Hawai'i was admitted as a territory of the United States in 1898, the island was transferred to the U.S. government.  In 1941, the island was leased to the U.S. Army for use as a gunnery an bombing range, and many of the U.S. military forces involved in Pacific operations during World War II, the Korean War and the Vietnam War trained there.  In 1953, the island was assigned the U.S. Navy control by an executive order.  The Navy used the island for ordinance training until 1990.

In cooperation with various federal, state and local groups, the Navy is currently pursing a vigorous revegitation program, including the planting of more than 60,000 trees and hundreds of acres of grass.  On May 7, 1994, after extensive negotiations between the Navy and the state government, the Navy conveyed the title of Kaho'olawe to Hawai'i.  In an agreement with the state, the Navy is conducting an unexploded ordnance clearance project and controls access to the island until May 7, 2004.  Entry to the island is restricted due to the hazard posed by unexploded ordnance.

Kauai - "The Garden Island"

The oldest and northernmost of the islands, Kauai is known as "The Garden Island," a named derived from its lush vegetation.   Approximately 550-square miles in size, Kauai was originally formed by a single volcano.  At the island's center stands the twin peaks of Kawaikini and Waialeale.   The breathtaking Waimea Canyon is over 3,000 feet deep and winds through 14 miles of dense but hikeable forest.  Along the Na Pali shoreline, sheer cliffs drop into the surging ocean.

The island of Kauai, despite suffering severe damage during Hurricane "Iniki" in 1992, remains a popular tourist attraction.   Kauai has many points of interest including the Hanalei Valley (the site used in the motion picture Jurassic Park), the famous Fern Grotto (a popular site for weddings), and the state's only navigable river, the Wailua River. 

Lanai - "The Pineapple Island"

One of the oldest islands, few people had ever heard of Lanai or pineapples until James Dole purchase the island in 1022.  Today, known as "The Pineapple Island," Lanai is owned by the Dole Pineapple Company, a subsidiary of Castle & Cooke, Inc.  

While the island's population is sparse and the nature of its major activities are of relatively little interest, visitors are still welcome.   Fishing is popular on Manele Beach and along Shipwreck Beach on the northeast shore, where you can see the hulls of old shipwrecked vessels.  Castle & Cooke plans to develop more in the way of hotels, condominiums and a commercial area, hoping to cater to a broader tourist market

Maui - "The Valley Island"

Maui is the second largest of the Hawaiian Islands and is comprised of 728 square miles of rolling land, volcanic peaks and valleys.  While it is currently third in population, "The Valley Island" is growing rapidly due to the expansion of tourism which is now the island's largest industry.  Named for a island demigod the islanders believed possessed super-human strength, Maui served as a favorite resort spot for Hawaiian royalty in the early days.

The city of Lahiaina, located on Maui's southwestern shore, was once a world famous whaling center (humpback whales still migrate to the area), and was the first capital of the Hawaiian Nation under King Kamehameha until it was moved to Honolulu.  Lahiaina has been designated a National Historic Site to preserve its unique 19th century nautical atmosphere. 

Molokai - "The Friendly Island"

Called "The Friendly Island," Molokai is the fifth largest in the Hawaiian chain. It is 37 miles long and 10 miles wide.  The western volcano of the island erupted and formed the Mauna Loa plateau which later became the site of the Molokai Ranch.  Today, the ranch now includes a wildlife park which displays exotic animals from around the globe.  At 4,970 feet, Kamakau on the east end of the island, creates more rugged land.  This end of Molokai features some of the most stunning coastal cliffs in the state and the longest waterfall in Hawai'i, Kahiwa Falls, which drops over 1,700 feet into the sea.  Finally, the Kalaupapa peninsula was formed when the third volcano erupted and pushed molten lava against steep cliffs to the north.  The flat land this eruption created left areas that were isolated from the rest of the island by the cliffs.  The government of Hawaii chose this area in the 1860's as the site of the famous Father Damien Disease Colony where leprosy patients were treated.  Today, the colony is a National Historic Park.

The island has managed to avoid much of the development and commercialism found on Oahu and Maui over the years, but the issue is rapidly coming to the forefront with the decline of pineapple production on the island.  The island has preserved the lure of the "Old Hawaii" setting and its natural beauty, but efforts are being made to develop resort areas.

Niihau - "The Forbidden Island"

"The Forbidden Island," Niihau is the privately owned, 70-square mile home to a small group of Hawaiians who want to preserve their native culture and rural lifestyle.  Owned by one family, the entire island operates as a sheep and cattle ranch.  Little has changed on the island since the 1860s and visitors are not welcome unless specifically invited by a Niihau resident.

Oahu - "The Gathering Island"

Over three-quarters of the state's population (over one million people) call Oahu home, which justifies the old Hawaiian name for it "The Gathering Place."  When it was first discovered by the Polynesians, the balmy climate, sandy beaches and fertile soil of Oahu quickly made it a favorite destination.   While thousands of acres of farmland still produce sugarcane and pineapple, the island has undergone and incredible transformation over the years.  Oahu is no longer an agricultural center, but has become a vacation and business center for the Pacific region. 

Honolulu, the state capital and a major hub for financial affairs in the Pacific (every major Hawaiian business has offices there as do companies with interests in the area), blends unique modern architecture with renovated 19th century buildings, lush parks and expansive shopping malls.  A few miles from downtown Honolulu lies Waikiki, a pinnacle of resort communities worldwide.  On a mile of pristine beach, some of the world's most sophisticated hotels, night clubs, restaurants, theaters and shopping malls are set along the sand. With leisure activities galore to entertain, Waikiki is considered at true vacationer's paradise.

The island of Oahu has many other areas of interest to explore and enjoy including the Helemano Plantation, green stretches of sugarcane and pineapple fields which run along the 4,000 foot tall Koolau and Waianae mountains, championship surfing along the North Shore, gliding, kayaking and even polo.  In addition to its commercial and recreational importance, Oahu is also Hawaii's center stage for cultural events with fine museums, libraries, gardens and a major symphony orchestra.