Diamond Head State Park - A hike to the top of Oahu
By PH2 Chad McNeeley Navy Region Hawaii
Sailors and fisherman once used the crater as a landmark on their journeys
to help navigate their way around the Hawaiian island chain. When viewed
from the outside, the crater appears to be nothing more than a dormant
volcano, a harmless mountain. But on the inside lies a series of tunnels
and bunkers that were built beginning in 1908, and used for gun batteries
for the coastal defense of Hawaii.
After volcanic inactivity on Oahu, a single, brief eruption created "Le
ahi" (Diamond Head). The eruption occurred near the ocean creating a rock
called "tuff" from the magma that was broken down into ash and particles by
the water and steam.
The crater covers more than 350 acres and is wider than it is high. The
highest point, the southwestern rim was formed from the winds blowing the
ash during the eruption. The Hawaiian name Le ahi was said to be given to
the crater by Hi iaka, the sister of the Hawaiian fire goddess, Pele
because the summit was said to resemble the forehead of the ‘ahi fish.
The other interpretation of the title comes from "fire headland", the
navigational fires that were set for the canoers travelling on the
shoreline. Explorers mistakenly mistook the calcite deposits in the rocks
on the crater as diamonds in the 1700’s, hence the common reference to the
title.
The military purchased Diamond Head in 1904 after realizing that the
crater’s rim, which offers a panoramic view that sweeps across the entire
southern shore of Oahu, was a perfect site for the coastal defense of Oahu.
The fortification of the crater was begun in 1908 with the building of
numerous gun emplacements and a tunnel carved through the north wall of the
crater to what then was called Fort Ruger. There were a total of five gun
batteries constructed between 1910 and 1943. A fire control station was
built at the summit and contained all of the instruments and material to
manage the artillery fire from the numerous batteries located in the
crater.
The trail to the summit was built in 1908. After driving through the Kahala
tunnel on the eastern face of the crater, the trailhead begins a few short
steps from the parking lot on the crater floor. That is the last flat
portion of the hike, as the trail climbs the steep interior walls of the
crater and quickly rises 560 feet in 0.8 miles.
Due to the uneven and tricky terrain of the crater, proper footwear is
required to navigate the narrow path that accommodates climbing and
descending hikers at the same time. The hike, depending upon the time of
day can be a hot one. Carrying a bottle of water is highly recommended,
since no water or restroom facilities are available anywhere along the
trail.
The semi-arid climate in the crater mostly supports low shrubs and herbs.
It is believed that a dry-land forest once inhabited the crater. Until the
early part of the 20th century, rainwater collected in the bottom of the
crater creating a small lake that provided habitat for native ducks, coots
and gallinules.
The trail was originally designed for mule and foot traffic, carrying
construction material along the numerous switchbacks for the building of
the fire control station. The dirt trail, which is now concrete, continues
upward at a steady pace until the first lookout. This lookout was
constructed to help lift larger materials that couldn’t be hauled by mule
or man off the crater floor. The winch that was used is still there,
providing a look into the past at how the gun batteries were constructed.
The view from the lookout extends out over the entire crater and offers a
peek at the forth-coming view from the top of the Pacific Ocean to the
south and the Koolau mountains to the north.
After catching your breath at the lookout, the trek continues upward along
another pair of switchbacks until coming to a set of 74 concrete steps
leading to the first tunnel. The 225-foot long tunnel has no lights and is
virtually pitch black shortly after entering it. Bring a flashlight to help
guide your way.
Shortly after exiting the first tunnel, a second set of (99) much steeper
steps rises in front of you. Beckoning your strength and endurance at this
point can be a challenge, but the stairs are not nearly as difficult as
they appear. Using the provided handrail, they can be climbed very quickly
with minimal exertion.
At the top of the stairs lies another tunnel, (again very dark), that leads
to the lowest level of the fire control station where the observation
equipment was housed for Fort DeRussy at Waikiki. A narrow, iron spiral
staircase leads to the four upper levels of the fire control station. Again
these spaces are all quite dark and you will need to use your flashlight to
navigate.
After exiting the crater through slits that once covered the now non-
existent guns, the climb continues upward along 54 metal stairs up to the
observation deck. About one half hour after you start your hike, you will
be standing on the summit of the crater on the observation deck at an
elevation of 761 feet - ready for a well-deserved break and accompanying
view of the entire panorama from Koko Head to Waianae.
The trail became a designated national landmark in 1968, and sees thousands
of tourists a year.
The Diamond Head State Monument can be accessed by driving east on Kalakaua
Ave. through Waikiki and Kapiolani regional park. Follow the road through
the park until it turns into Diamond Head Road. Follow Diamond Head Road
until you see the signs for the park on the left. The park is open daily
from 6 a.m. to 6 p.m.